Northland

New Zealand is famous for wine. When most people think of Kiwi wine, they think of the South Island. They picture the vast, flat rows of vines in Marlborough or the snowy mountains behind the vineyards of Central Otago. They think of zesty Sauvignon Blanc that smells like passionfruit and cut grass.

But there is another story. It is a story that started long before Marlborough planted its first vine. It is a story of warm breezes, blue water, and red wine that tastes like spices and dark fruit. This is the story of Northland.

Northland is the long, narrow finger of land at the very top of New Zealand. Locals call it the “Winterless North” because it rarely gets cold. It is a place of beaches, ancient forests, and history. It is also the birthplace of New Zealand wine.

For a long time, wine lovers overlooked Northland. It was considered too hot or too humid. But in the last 30 years, that has changed. Today, Northland is producing some of the most exciting, rich, and full-bodied wines in the country. It is a boutique region, meaning the wineries are small, family-run, and focused on quality rather than making millions of bottles.

This guide will take you on a journey through the vines of the North. We will explore the history, the land, the grapes, and the people who make this region special.

The Birthplace of a Nation’s Wine

To understand New Zealand wine, you have to go back to the beginning. And the beginning happened in Northland.

The First Planting: 1819

The very first grapevines in New Zealand were not planted by a winemaker. They were planted by a missionary named Reverend Samuel Marsden. In 1819, Marsden arrived in Kerikeri, a settlement in the Bay of Islands. On September 25th, he planted about 100 vines in the rich soil near the Stone Store (which is still standing today).

Marsden was optimistic. He wrote in his journal that New Zealand promised to be very favorable for the vine. However, Marsden was a busy man. He was there to spread Christianity, not to make wine. While his vines grew, there is no record that he ever made a bottle of wine from them. But he proved the plant could survive.

The First Winemaker: James Busby

The real father of the industry was James Busby. Busby arrived in the Bay of Islands in the 1830s. He is famous in history books as the man who drafted the Treaty of Waitangi, the founding document of New Zealand. But before he was a politician, he was a wine expert.

Busby had studied viticulture (grape growing) in France and Spain. When he came to New Zealand, he brought a collection of European vine cuttings with him. He planted them at his estate in Waitangi in 1833.

By 1840, a French explorer named Dumont d’Urville visited Busby. He tasted a white wine made on the property. He wrote that it was “light, very sparkling, and delicious to taste.” This was the first recorded wine review in New Zealand history.

The Long Sleep and the Dalmatian Diggers

After those early days, the Northland wine industry almost disappeared. A mix of economic trouble, plant diseases like phylloxera (a tiny insect that kills vines), and a strong temperance movement (people who wanted to ban alcohol) stopped the industry from growing.

For nearly 100 years, the land was used for farming and digging for kauri gum. Kauri gum is a fossilized resin from giant trees, used to make varnish. The men who dug for this gum often came from Croatia (then part of the Austrian Empire), specifically the region of Dalmatia.

These Dalmatian gum diggers are heroes of the New Zealand wine story. They came from a wine-drinking culture. Even when the laws made it hard to sell wine, they kept small vineyards for their families. They kept the knowledge alive. While many of them eventually moved south to Auckland to start famous brands like Babich and Nobilo, their roots were in the North.

The Modern Renaissance

It wasn’t until the late 1900s that Northland woke up again. In the 1990s, pioneers realized that the warm climate was perfect for grapes that struggled in the colder south. They started planting Syrah, Chardonnay, and Pinot Gris.

Today, Northland is no longer a sleeping giant. It is a vibrant, exciting region that is reclaiming its title as the true home of New Zealand wine.

The Lay of the Land: Terroir in the Tropics

In the wine world, people talk about terroir (pronounced tear-wah). This is a French word that means “the sense of place.” It includes the climate, the soil, and the landscape. Northland’s terroir is completely different from the rest of New Zealand.

The Climate: The Winterless North

Northland is subtropical. It is narrow, meaning no vineyard is more than 50 kilometers (about 30 miles) from the ocean.

  • Heat: It is the warmest region in the country. This heat is vital. It allows grapes to ripen fully. In the South Island, winemakers often worry if their red grapes will get ripe before the frost comes. In Northland, that is rarely a problem. The grapes get sweet and flavorful.
  • Humidity: The warmth comes with moisture. Northland is humid. This is the biggest challenge for farmers. Fungi and rot love humidity. Winemakers have to work hard to keep the vines open and airy so the wind can dry the grapes.
  • Wind: The ocean breezes act like a natural fan, cooling the vines on hot days and drying them off after rain.

The Soil: Clay and Volcanoes

The dirt in Northland is ancient.

  • Clay Soils: Much of the region is covered in heavy clay. Clay is interesting because it holds water. In a dry summer, this is a lifesaver for the vines. But in a wet winter, it can get waterlogged.
  • Volcanic Soils: Around areas like Whangarei and Kerikeri, you find rich, red volcanic soil. This soil drains well (water runs through it easily) and is full of minerals.

This combination of heat and ancient soil gives the wines a specific character. They tend to be full-bodied (feeling heavy and rich in your mouth), ripe, and savory.

The Grapes: What Grows Best?

Because Northland is so warm, it grows different grapes than the rest of the country. You won’t find much Sauvignon Blanc here—it’s too hot for that zesty, crisp style. Instead, Northland focuses on grapes that love the sun.

1. Syrah (The Star)

If Northland has a king, it is Syrah. In France, Syrah is the grape of the Rhône Valley. In Australia, they call it Shiraz and make it big and jammy. Northland Syrah is somewhere in the middle.

  • The Taste: It is elegant. It often tastes like black plums, sweet spices (like cinnamon), and cracked black pepper. Because of the heat, it can also have floral notes, like violets.
  • Why it works: Syrah loves a long, warm autumn, and Northland delivers exactly that.

2. Chardonnay (The Queen)

Chardonnay grows well almost anywhere, but in Northland, it gets powerful.

  • The Taste: These are not thin, watery wines. They are big. Think of ripe peaches, melons, and nectarines.
  • The Style: Winemakers here often use oak barrels to age the wine. This adds flavors of vanilla and toast that match the ripe fruit perfectly.

3. Pinot Gris

This is a white grape that is very popular with locals.

  • The Taste: Northland Pinot Gris is often “off-dry,” meaning it has a tiny bit of sweetness left in it, but not enough to be a dessert wine. It tastes like pears, baked apples, and sometimes gingerbread. It has a thick, oily texture that feels luxurious.

4. Chambourcin (The Survivor)

This is a grape you might not have heard of. Chambourcin is a “hybrid” grape. Most famous wine grapes (like Merlot or Chardonnay) are from the species Vitis vinifera. Chambourcin is a mix of European vines and American vines.

  • History: It was planted widely in Northland decades ago because it is tough. It resists rot and disease better than other grapes, which is helpful in the humid North.
  • The Taste: It makes a dark red wine with purple edges. It tastes like boysenberries and herbs. For a long time, wine snobs looked down on it. Now, people are realizing it is actually a delicious part of Northland’s history.

5. The Bordeaux Blends

You will also find Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. These are the grapes used in Bordeaux, France. They need heat to ripen, or else they taste like green bell peppers. Northland provides that heat, producing rich, soft reds.

Exploring the Sub-Regions

Northland is a large area, stretching about 300 kilometers from top to bottom. It is not just one big vineyard; it is a collection of small pockets where wine is made.

1. Kerikeri and the Bay of Islands

This is the heart of the region. It is where Marsden planted his vines, and it is the main hub for tourists.

  • The Vibe: This area is bustling with holidaymakers. The wineries here often have beautiful restaurants attached to them. It is very green and lush.
  • Key Producers: Wineries here are small and boutique. Places like The Landing (on the Purerua Peninsula) are world-class. They combine luxury accommodation with serious winemaking. Marsden Estate is another staple, named after the Reverend, serving as a hub where many smaller growers bring their grapes to be processed.

2. Whangarei

Whangarei is the main city of the North. The vineyards here are often tucked away in valleys or near the harbor.

  • The Vibe: It is slightly cooler than the Far North but has distinct volcanic soils. The stone walls you see around the vineyards are often made of volcanic rock.
  • The Wines: You find excellent Chardonnay here. The cooler nights help keep the “acid” in the wine, which makes it taste fresh and crisp.

3. Kaitaia and the Far North

This is the “Top of the North.” It is narrow, sandy, and very warm.

  • Karikari Peninsula: This distinct hook of land sticks out into the ocean. It has a climate almost like the Mediterranean.
  • The Vibe: It feels wild and remote. The light is incredibly bright.
  • The Wines: This is red wine country. The heat allows Syrah and Merlot to get very ripe. Karikari Estate is the most famous winery here, sitting on a hill looking over the ocean. It is one of the northernmost vineyards in the world’s southern hemisphere.

The Northland Wine Experience: Tourism and Culture

Visiting a winery in Northland is different from visiting one in Marlborough or Napa Valley.

The “Long Lunch” Culture

In big commercial regions, a “cellar door” (tasting room) might rush you through a tasting of five wines so they can serve the next group. Northland is slower. Here, wine is about food. Because the wineries are small, you are often served by the owner or the winemaker. Most wineries have a restaurant or a cafe. The concept of the “Long Lunch” is legendary here. You sit on a deck, looking out over vines and palm trees, eating fresh local oysters or snapper, and drinking a glass of Pinot Gris. It is relaxed. It is personal.

The Twin Coast Discovery Highway

This is the main touring route around Northland. It loops around the coastlines. Following this highway is the best way to find the vineyards. You can drive from the Tasman Sea on the west to the Pacific Ocean on the east in just over an hour. This proximity to the sea defines the lifestyle. A typical day for a local might involve working in the vineyard in the morning and going fishing or surfing in the afternoon.

Challenges in Paradise

Growing grapes in the Winterless North sounds easy, but it is actually very hard work.

The Rain and Rot

The biggest enemy is rain during harvest. Imagine you have spent six months growing perfect, sweet grapes. It is March (autumn in New Zealand), and you are ready to pick. Suddenly, a tropical cyclone comes down from the Pacific. If it rains heavily, the grapes can split. When they split, they rot. Because of this, vintage variation is real.

  • A “Good” Vintage: Hot, dry autumn. The wines are world-class.
  • A “Difficult” Vintage: Wet autumn. Winemakers have to pick early, or they have to sort through the grapes by hand to throw away the bad ones. This makes the wine more expensive to make.

The Birds

Northland is full of native birds like Tui and Waxeyes. They love sweet grapes. Winemakers have to put huge nets over the rows of vines to protect them. Putting these nets on and taking them off is a massive, labor-intensive job.

Labor Costs

Because the vineyards are often on hills or small blocks of land, machines cannot be used easily. Most of the work—pruning, leaf plucking, harvesting—must be done by hand. This makes Northland wine a premium product. You won’t find $10 bottles of Northland wine in the supermarket. It costs more because it costs more to make.

The Future of Northland Wine

What does the future hold for this historic region?

Climate Change

Ironically, climate change might help Northland in some ways, even while it hurts in others. As the weather gets generally warmer, Northland is becoming even more suitable for heat-loving red grapes. Some winemakers are even experimenting with varieties from Spain and Italy, like Tempranillo and Montepulciano, which love the heat.

Quality over Quantity

Northland will never be a mass-producer. There isn’t enough flat land. The future of Northland is in high-end, boutique wines. It is about making small amounts of something very special.

The New Guard

A new generation of winemakers is moving North. They are attracted by the lifestyle and the challenge. They are experimenting with “Natural Wines” (wines made with no chemicals and very little intervention). They are using the wild yeasts that live in the air to ferment the juice. They are proving that Northland is not just a place for history, but a place for innovation.

Summary

Northland is a special place. It is where the New Zealand wine story started with Samuel Marsden in 1819. It is a land of clay soils, subtropical heat, and blue oceans.

While it faces challenges like rain and humidity, the result is worth the struggle. The wines of Northland—the spicy Syrahs, the rich Chardonnays, and the unique Chambourcins—are full of character. They reflect the warmth of the land and the people.

If you visit New Zealand, do not stop at Auckland. Keep driving North. Go to where the history is. Sit on a veranda in Kerikeri, order a glass of local Syrah, and taste the Winterless North.

Recommended Resources

For more information on New Zealand wine, consider visiting these authoritative resources: