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Red wine. It is the drink of poets, kings, and dinner tables around the world. But have you ever stopped to look at the dark, ruby liquid in your glass and wonder, “How did this actually happen?”
It seems like magic. You take a fruit that is mostly green or purple water, and somehow, it turns into a complex, shelf-stable beverage with flavors of cherry, leather, chocolate, and spice. While there is a bit of magic involved, the reality is a fascinating mix of biology, chemistry, and old-fashioned hard work.
This guide is your backstage pass to the winery. We aren’t just skimming the surface; we are going deep into the three most critical stages of making red wine: Crushing, Fermenting, and Pressing. By the time you finish reading, you will understand exactly what happens from the moment a grape is picked to the moment it becomes wine.
The Big Difference: It’s All About the Skin
Before we turn on the heavy machinery, we have to answer a simple question: What makes red wine red?
The answer lies in the grape skins.
If you were to peel a red grape—be it a Cabernet Sauvignon, a Merlot, or a Pinot Noir—and squeeze the pulp, the juice that comes out would be clear. White wine is made by pressing grapes and fermenting only the juice. Red wine is made by fermenting the juice while it is still in contact with the skins and seeds.
Think of it like making tea. If you dip a tea bag in hot water for two seconds, you get hot water. If you let it steep, you get color, flavor, and texture. In winemaking, the skins are the tea bag. The process of soaking the juice with the skins is called maceration. This is where red wine gets its:
- Color: From compounds called anthocyanins.
- Flavor: The specific fruit characteristics.
- Tannin: That drying, grippy sensation on your gums that gives wine structure.
Now that we know the goal—getting the goodness out of the skins—let’s look at how it’s done.
Phase 1: The Arrival and The Crush
The winemaking clock starts the second the grapes are picked. Once the fruit is severed from the vine, it begins to degrade. Speed and temperature are everything.
The Sorting Table: Only the Best Need Apply
Before any crushing happens, the grapes must be sorted. In the old days, everything went into the vat—leaves, bugs, lizards, and rotten fruit. Today, quality is king.
Grapes arrive at the winery in bins. They are dumped onto a sorting table. This can be a simple conveyor belt where humans pick out leaves and bad grapes by hand, or it can be a high-tech optical sorter. Optical sorters are like futuristic bouncers; they use cameras and jets of air to blast away any grape that doesn’t have the perfect shape or color.
Why does this matter? Great wine cannot be made from bad grapes. One rotten bunch can make a whole tank taste moldy.
Destemming: Taking Out the Backbone
Grapes grow on stalks called stems. Stems are loaded with tannins, but not always the good kind. Stem tannins can taste “green,” bitter, or woody.
Most red winemakers use a machine called a destemmer-crusher.
- Destemming: The machine has a perforated cage that spins. The grapes fall through the holes, while the stems are caught and ejected out the back.
- The Choice: Some winemakers skip this. They leave the stems in, a technique called Whole Cluster fermentation. This is common with grapes like Pinot Noir. It adds a spicy, herbal kick to the wine. But for most bold reds, the stems have to go.
The Crush: Pop, Don’t Puree
Now we have a bin full of naked grapes. It is time to break them open.
The “Crush” is a bit of a misleading word. We don’t want to obliterate the grapes into a smoothie. If you grind up the seeds, you release bitter oils that taste terrible.
The goal is to gently break the skin.
The grapes pass through two rollers. The gap between them is set perfectly to pop the grape open, releasing the juice, but leaving the seeds safe and sound inside.
The result is a slushy mix of juice, skins, seeds, and pulp. In the wine world, we call this mess Must.
Pro Tip: The quality of the “Must” dictates the quality of the wine. It is the raw material. If the Must tastes good, the wine has a fighting chance.
Phase 2: The Cold Soak (The Waiting Game)
You might think we add the yeast immediately. Not always.
Many modern winemakers use a technique called a Cold Soak. They pump the Must into a stainless steel tank and chill it down to about 40°F (4°C). At this temperature, yeast stays asleep. Fermentation cannot start.
Why wait? It goes back to our tea analogy.
Alcohol is a solvent—it strips things out of the skins very aggressively. Water (grape juice) is a gentle solvent. By letting the skins sit in the cold juice for a few days before alcohol is created, the winemaker can extract deep, rich colors and soft fruit flavors without pulling out the harsh, bitter tannins that come later.
It is like steeping your tea in cool water to get a refreshing flavor before heating it up.
Phase 3: Fermentation (The Magic Trick)
This is the main event. This is where juice becomes wine.
Fermentation is a chemical reaction, but it is caused by a living organism: Yeast.
The formula is beautifully simple: Sugar + Yeast = Alcohol + CO2 + Heat
The Yeast
Winemakers have two choices here:
- Wild Yeast (Native): These are microscopic fungi floating in the air and living on the grape skins in the vineyard. You just let nature take its course. It is risky, unpredictable, but can create complex, soulful wines.
- Cultured Yeast (Commercial): You buy specific strains of yeast from a lab. You sprinkle them into the tank. This is reliable and safe. You know exactly what you are going to get.
The Heat
As yeast eats sugar, it generates heat. A lot of it. If a tank gets too hot (over 95°F/35°C), the yeast will die, and the wine will taste like cooked jam. If it is too cold, the yeast will go to sleep.
Winemakers control the temperature using cooling jackets—metal layers wrapped around the tank that circulate glycol (antifreeze) to keep the must at the perfect temperature, usually between 70°F and 85°F for red wines.
Phase 4: Cap Management (Working the Cake)
Here is a physics problem for you. As the yeast eats sugar, it releases Carbon Dioxide (CO2).
CO2 is a gas. It creates bubbles that push upward. The skins and seeds are solids.
As the gas rises, it pushes all the solid stuff—the skins and seeds—to the top of the tank. They form a thick, hard layer on the surface called the Cap.
This is a problem for two reasons:
- No Extraction: If the skins are floating on top, they aren’t soaking in the liquid. The wine won’t get any red color. It will turn out pink and weak.
- Spoilage: If the cap dries out, bad bacteria (like vinegar bacteria) can grow on it and ruin the wine.
To fix this, the winemaker has to mix the skins back into the juice. This is called Cap Management. It is hard, physical work, and it happens 2 to 4 times a day.
Method A: The Punch Down (Pigeage)
This is the traditional, artisanal way. You use a tool that looks like a giant potato masher on a long pole. You stand over the open tank and physically push the floating skins back down into the juice.
- Result: It is gentle but effective. It extracts good color without beating up the grapes too much. Common for Pinot Noir and Syrah.
Method B: The Pump Over (Remontage)
You hook up a hose to the bottom of the tank, suck the juice out, and use a pump to spray it over the top of the cap like a firehose.
- Result: This breaks up the cap and introduces a lot of oxygen. Oxygen helps the yeast stay healthy. This is a more vigorous method, great for big, tough grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon.
Method C: Rack and Return (Délestage)
This is the “nuclear option.” You drain all the juice out of the tank into a separate vessel. The skins fall to the bottom of the empty tank. Then, you pump all the juice back in on top of them.
- Result: Maximum aeration and extraction. It makes very dark, intense wines.
Phase 5: Pressing ( The Final Squeeze)
After a week or two, the yeast has eaten all the sugar. The bubbling stops. The skins sink. We now have dry wine. But it is still sitting in a sludge of skins and seeds.
It is time to separate the liquid from the solid.
The Free Run
First, the winemaker opens the valve at the bottom of the tank. The wine flows out by gravity. This is called Free Run wine.
- Character: It is pure, silky, and elegant. It flowed naturally without being forced. This is the highest quality portion.
The Press
Now, we are left with a wet pile of skins and seeds in the tank. This soggy mass is shovelled into a Press.
A modern wine press is usually a horizontal stainless steel cylinder with a rubber balloon inside. The door is closed, and the balloon inflates with air. It gently squishes the skins against the side of the cylinder, squeezing out every last drop of liquid.
This liquid is called Press Wine.
- Character: Because it was squeezed out of the skins, it is very dark and very tannic. It has a lot of grip.
The Blend
Here is the winemaker’s secret: They rarely bottle the Free Run and Press Wine separately. They keep them in separate barrels, but later, they blend them. The Free Run provides the elegance. The Press Wine provides the backbone and power. Mixing them creates the perfect balance.
Technical Spotlight: The Science of “Brix”
You might hear winemakers talk about “Brix.” Brix (degrees Brix) is simply a scale for measuring sugar.
- 1 Degree Brix ≈ 1% Sugar.
Why do we care? Because sugar turns into alcohol. There is a rough conversion rate. Generally, 1 Brix turns into about 0.55% to 0.6% Alcohol.
- If you pick grapes at 20 Brix, you get a light wine (about 11% alcohol).
- If you pick grapes at 25 Brix, you get a boozy wine (about 14.5% alcohol).
Winemakers check the Brix daily during fermentation to see how fast the yeast is working. When Brix hits zero, the party is over. The wine is dry.
A Brief History: From Feet to Computers
Winemaking feels timeless, but the technology has changed drastically.
The Ancient Method (6000 BC): In the beginning—specifically in the Caucasus region (modern-day Georgia)—people threw whole bunches of grapes into clay jars called Qvevri. They buried the jars underground to keep them cool. They stomped the grapes with their feet (the original “Crush”). Human feet are actually perfect crushers; they are soft enough not to break the bitter seeds but heavy enough to break the skins.
The Roman Era: The Romans industrialized wine. They invented the screw press, a giant wooden beam that used leverage to squeeze grapes. It was efficient, allowing them to make wine for their massive armies.
The 19th Century: Louis Pasteur discovered yeast. Before him, fermentation was considered a “spontaneous” act of God. Once we understood yeast, we could control it.
Today: We use stainless steel tanks that can control temperature to within a tenth of a degree. We use satellite imagery to check grape ripeness. But despite the gadgets, the core philosophy hasn’t changed in 8,000 years: Grapes + Skins + Time = Red Wine.
Practical Applications: Can You Do This?
You might be reading this and thinking, “Can I make wine in my garage?”
Yes. The barrier to entry is surprisingly low.
What you need for a Home Crush:
- Fruit: You can buy “frozen must” buckets or fresh grapes from a distributor.
- Vessel: A food-grade plastic bucket (the fermenter).
- Yeast: A $2 packet from a brew shop.
- Hygiene: This is the most important part. Everything that touches the wine must be sanitized.
The Home Challenge: The hardest part for home winemakers is Temperature Control. Fermentation creates heat. If your bucket gets too hot in your garage, the yeast will produce “off-flavors” (smells like nail polish remover). If you can keep your bucket in a cool room (65-70°F), you can make wine that beats the $15 bottle at the grocery store.
The Future of the Crush
Where is red winemaking going next? The industry is facing two major shifts.
1. Climate Change: Grapes are getting sweeter. Warmer summers mean more sugar (higher Brix). More sugar means higher alcohol. Winemakers are struggling to keep wines from tasting like rocket fuel. They are developing new technologies, like reverse osmosis, to remove alcohol, or they are planting grapes in cooler, higher-altitude regions.
2. The Return to Nature: There is a massive trend toward “Natural Wine.” This is a rejection of the high-tech optical sorters and commercial yeasts. These winemakers use native yeast, minimal technology, and often return to ancient methods like foot-stomping. It is a full circle—using the history of the past to forge the future.
Conclusion
The next time you uncork a bottle of Cabernet or Shiraz, take a moment to look at the color.
That deep red hue isn’t just dye; it is the memory of the crush. It represents the skins that floated to the top of a tank. It represents the winemaker who woke up at 4:00 AM to punch down the cap. It represents the gentle pressure of the press that extracted the final drops of flavor.
Winemaking is a bridge between agriculture and art. It starts with a dirty, sticky mess in a field, passes through a violent chemical reaction, and ends up as something elegant in a glass. It is a chaotic, beautiful process, and now, you know exactly how it works.
Cheers to the crush.
Further Reading Resources
- Adventures in Homebrewing – Crushing and Pressing Red Grapes
- WineMakerMag.com – Crushing Grapes
- Pressing (wine) – Wikipedia
- MoreWine – Pressing a Red Wine Fermentation
- Champagne Every Day – Crushing Facts
