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For nearly two decades, Merlot has fought a battle it didn’t start. In the early 2000s, this grape was the king of the red wine world. It was easy to drink, easy to find, and loved by millions. Then, a single line in a movie changed everything. Suddenly, ordering a glass of Merlot became “uncool.”
But here is the truth that wine insiders have known all along: Merlot is responsible for some of the most expensive, highly prized, and delicious wines on Earth.
It is the velvet glove of the wine world. It is soft yet powerful, fruity yet complex. It bridges the gap between the light, ethereal nature of Pinot Noir and the heavy punch of Cabernet Sauvignon. To understand Merlot is to understand the very heart of red wine. This guide will take you through everything you need to know about this misunderstood giant, from its deep roots in French history to its modern-day comeback.
Part 1: What Exactly Is Merlot?
Before we dive into history and geography, we need to understand the grape itself. What makes Merlot taste like Merlot?
The “Little Blackbird”
The name “Merlot” is thought to come from the French word merle, which translates to blackbird. There are two theories about this name. The first is that the grapes are a beautiful, dark blue-black color, matching the bird’s feathers. The second theory is a bit more practical: blackbirds love eating these grapes because they are so sweet and ripen early.
The Biology of the Berry
To understand the wine in your glass, you have to look at the skin of the grape. Red wine gets its color, flavor, and tannin (that drying sensation in your mouth) from the skins.
- Thin Skins: Unlike its tough cousin, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot has thinner skins. This means the resulting wine has lower tannins. It feels smoother and softer on your tongue right away.
- High Sugar: Merlot grapes can get very sweet, very fast. In the world of fermentation, sugar equals alcohol. This often results in a wine that has a generous body and a warm finish.
- Big Berries: The grapes themselves are large and juicy. This high juice-to-skin ratio emphasizes fruit flavors over bitterness.
The Taste Profile
If you had to describe Merlot in one word, it would be “plush.”
When you take a sip of a classic Merlot, you are usually greeted by red and black fruits. Think of cherries, plums, and raspberries. Because Merlot is often aged in oak barrels, you will also find comforting notes of vanilla, chocolate, and clove.
But the taste changes depending on where the grape is grown. This is what experts call “terroir” (tear-wah)—the taste of the place.
- Cool Climate Merlot (France, Italy, Washington State): These wines are more structured. They taste like tart raspberries and strawberries. You might smell dried herbs, tobacco, or a wet earthy smell, like a forest floor after rain. These wines feel elegant and savory.
- Warm Climate Merlot (California, Australia, Argentina): These are the “fruit bombs.” They taste like blackberry jam, fruitcake, and chocolate. They are bold, high in alcohol, and feel very thick and smooth in your mouth.
Part 2: A Deep Rooted History
Merlot is not a new fad. It is royalty.
DNA profiling has shown us that Merlot is the offspring of Cabernet Franc (the father) and an obscure, old variety called Magdeleine Noire des Charentes (the mother). This makes Merlot a half-sibling to Cabernet Sauvignon and Carménère.
The first written record of Merlot dates back to 1784. A local official in the Bordeaux region of France labeled the wine from this grape as one of the best of its time. By the 19th century, it was being planted all over the “Left Bank” of Bordeaux to soften up the tough Cabernet Sauvignon.
However, its true home was found on the “Right Bank” of the Gironde estuary. In areas like Pomerol and St-Émilion, farmers realized that the cold, clay soils were perfect for Merlot. While Cabernet Sauvignon struggled to ripen there, Merlot thrived. This discovery led to the creation of legendary wines that remain the gold standard today.
Part 3: The French Standard (Bordeaux)
To respect Merlot, you must look at France. In Bordeaux, the most famous wine region in the world, Merlot is actually the most planted grape—even more than Cabernet.
The Tale of Two Banks
Bordeaux is split in half by a river. This geography dictates the style of the wine.
The Left Bank
This area is famous for gravelly soil. Cabernet Sauvignon loves gravel. Here, Merlot is used as a “blending grape.” It is the sidekick. If the Cabernet is too harsh or aggressive, the winemaker adds Merlot to smooth it out, add body, and give it some juicy fruit.
The Right Bank
This is Merlot’s kingdom. The soil here is clay and limestone. Clay stays cool and holds water, which Merlot loves.
In the Right Bank regions of Pomerol and Saint-Émilion, the wines are primarily Merlot. These are not cheap, supermarket wines. These are wines like Château Pétrus.
- The Pétrus Factor: Pétrus is one of the most famous and expensive wines in the world. A single bottle can cost thousands of dollars. It is made almost entirely from Merlot. This fact alone proves that Merlot is capable of incredible greatness and longevity.
Part 4: The “Sideways” Effect
We cannot talk about Merlot without talking about the movie.
In 2004, the film Sideways was released. The main character, Miles, is a wine snob who is depressed and angry. In a famous scene, he screams, “If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am not drinking any #@!% Merlot!”
Miles represented the “connoisseur” who loved the difficult, finicky Pinot Noir grape. He viewed Merlot as “basic”—a boring wine for people who didn’t know better.
The Market Crash
The effect was real. In the United States, sales of Merlot dropped almost overnight. People were embarrassed to order it. Farmers in California actually ripped up Merlot vines and planted Pinot Noir instead to chase the trend.
The Irony
There are two great ironies to this story:
- The Cheval Blanc: At the end of the movie, Miles drinks his most prized possession—a 1961 Château Cheval Blanc—out of a styrofoam cup in a burger joint. He worships this wine. The irony? Cheval Blanc is a blend made mostly of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. He loved Merlot all along; he just didn’t realize it.
- The Quality Control: Before the movie, Merlot was so popular that companies were making a lot of bad, cheap Merlot just to sell it. The movie killed the market for the bad wine. The farmers who kept their Merlot vines were the ones who truly cared about quality. So, in a way, the movie actually made Merlot better by weeding out the junk.
Part 5: Merlot Around the World
While France is the homeland, Merlot travels well. It is grown in almost every major wine country.
United States: California
California Merlot is iconic. In Napa Valley and Sonoma, the warm sun turns Merlot into a rich, velvety drink. It is often aged in American oak, which adds strong flavors of dill, coconut, and vanilla.
- What to expect: Lush textures, blueberry flavors, and a “jammy” sweetness.
United States: Washington State
Washington is the unsung hero of American Merlot. The days are hot, but the nights are very cool. This temperature swing helps the grapes keep their natural acidity.
- What to expect: A perfect balance between the fruitiness of California and the structure of France. It is often arguably the best place in the US for this grape.
Italy: The Super Tuscans
In Tuscany, winemakers have a long history of breaking the rules. Decades ago, they started blending Merlot with the local grape, Sangiovese. These blends became known as “Super Tuscans.”
- What to expect: The Merlot adds flesh and softness to the tart, spicy Sangiovese. These wines are savory, herbal, and delicious with food.
Chile: The Value King
If you want a great bottle of wine for under $15, look to Chile. The Central Valley of Chile produces massive amounts of Merlot.
- What to expect: Very fruity, slightly spicy, and incredibly smooth. It is the ultimate “Tuesday night” wine.
Part 6: In the Vineyard (The Farmer’s View)
Why do farmers have a love-hate relationship with Merlot?
The Pros:
- It ripens early. This is great for regions that have rain in the autumn. Farmers can harvest Merlot before the storms hit, whereas Cabernet might still be green on the vine.
- It yields well. Merlot vines are vigorous and produce plenty of grapes.
The Cons:
- Coulure: This is a fancy French term for “shatter.” Sometimes, after the flowers bloom, they don’t turn into fruit. They just fall off. Merlot is very prone to this, especially if the weather is cold in the spring.
- Thin Skin Issues: Because the skins are thin, they rot easily if it rains too much.
- Water Stress: Merlot is a thirsty vine. If it doesn’t get enough water, the vines shut down, and the grapes shrivel.
Part 7: Practical Guide: How to Buy and Drink Merlot
You are at the store. You are staring at a wall of wine. How do you choose?
Decoding the Label
- If it says “Bordeaux” (and is affordable): It is likely a Merlot blend. Expect it to be earthy and dry. It needs food.
- If it says “Napa Valley”: Expect to pay a premium. It will be bold, oaky, and high in alcohol.
- If it says “Pomerol” or “St-Émilion”: This is high-end French Merlot. It will be expensive, but complex and age-worthy.
- If it says “Washington” or “Columbia Valley”: This is often the “sweet spot” for value and quality.
Serving Temperature
Do not serve Merlot at room temperature (which is usually 70°F-72°F). That is too warm and makes the wine taste like alcohol soup.
- The Sweet Spot: Serve it slightly cool, around 60°F to 65°F. Put the bottle in the fridge for 15 minutes before opening. This tightens up the flavors and makes the fruit taste fresher.
Glassware
You don’t need fancy crystal. A standard large-bowl red wine glass works best. You want a bowl wide enough to swirl the wine. Swirling adds oxygen, which “wakes up” the aromas of plum and cocoa.
Part 8: The Art of Food Pairing
This is Merlot’s secret weapon.
Cabernet Sauvignon is so strong it can overpower food. Pinot Noir is so delicate it can be overwhelmed by food. Merlot is right in the middle. It has enough acid to cut through fat, but enough fruit to match savory sauces.
The “High-Low” Strategy
Merlot works with fancy food and junk food.
- The “High” End: Roast lamb, duck breast, or a filet mignon. The soft tannins of Merlot wrap around the protein without fighting it.
- The “Low” End: Pizza and burgers. A juicy cheeseburger is arguably the best pairing for a Washington or Chilean Merlot. The wine mimics the ketchup/umami flavors and washes down the salty cheese.
- Vegetarian Options: Roasted vegetables, especially root vegetables like carrots and sweet potatoes, pair beautifully. The natural sweetness of the roasted veggie matches the sweetness of the grape. Mushroom risotto is another classic match.
What to Avoid
Avoid very spicy foods (like hot Thai curry) or very light seafood (like raw oysters). The spice will make the alcohol burn, and the fish will taste metallic against the red wine.
Part 9: The Future of Merlot
What does the future hold for the Blackbird?
Climate change is shifting the map. As regions get hotter, Merlot (which ripens early) is at risk of getting too sugary and flabby in traditional hot spots. This is pushing growers to look for higher altitudes and cooler sites.
We are also seeing a stylistic shift. For a long time, winemakers tried to make Merlot taste like Cabernet—heavy, oaky, and dark. Now, there is a movement to let Merlot be Merlot. Winemakers are picking the grapes a little earlier to keep the freshness and using less new oak. They are embracing the elegance rather than chasing power.
Conclusion: The Comeback Kid
Merlot never really went away, but it is finally getting the respect it deserves again. It is a grape that has survived wars, pests, and bad movie reviews.
It is the wine of comfort. It is the wine you open when you want something delicious without having to think too hard, yet it is complex enough to ponder over if you choose. It is capable of being a simple $10 crowd-pleaser and a $3,000 legend.
Next time you are looking at a wine list, skip the trend. Don’t be afraid to order the Merlot. You might just find that the “velvet glove” is exactly what you were looking for.
Further Reading
To continue your journey into the world of wine, we recommend visiting these respected resources:
- Wine Spectator – Merlot: For expert ratings and in-depth vintage reports on Merlot from around the globe.
- Decanter: A leading European perspective on wine, offering excellent guides on Bordeaux and Right Bank producers.
- Wine Folly – Merlot Guide: Great for visual learners, offering maps and flavor wheels specific to Merlot.
- JancisRobinson.com: One of the world’s most respected wine critics provides detailed encyclopedic entries on grape varieties.
